Week 5

July 2, Saturday.

Parga, Greece to Mitikas, Greece.
121 kms. 7 hrs. 40 min. Av. 15.8 Total 2468 kms.

Woke up at 04:30 and was on the road at 05:30, and the climbing started right away.
The fear I had about that first 10km climb was not warranted, I climbed that hill with no problem, to the surprise of a few kids that were just coming out of the nightclubs, a couple of them followed me for a while on their scooters, they kept asking if I needed help climbing, they could not believe I had made it all the way from The Netherlands on such a loaded bike.
It must have been the sea water and the good food, but I felt great and by the time I reached the top my legs were just warming up.
The road was new and kept going up and down for a while until I came up to this really huge climb up to the national park of Lutsa, that was a tough one but the views were fantastic and when I reached the highest point I had forgotten what I went through to get up there.
Far bellow this big hill was a really long beach, I thought about checking it out but I would have a very difficult climb getting out of there later on so I continued on the main road to Preveza.
If I ever come back to these parts I will have to check this beach out.
At Preveza I came to this undersea tunnel with a sign in front saying bicycles not allowed.
The detour would have cost me a days ride, so I played dumb and got on the small sidewalk and rode in. I didn't get further than 20m when I hear something on the loud speakers, I couldn't make it out so I continued, about 20m later I saw the street lights above change to red and all the traffic on the right side of the road stopped.
I didn't think nothing of it and I continued to the other side of the tunnel. Sure enough at the toll booths this man stopped me and told me why didn't I stop when asked to, so I told him that
I didn't understand what was said.
He said I should have waited for a couple of minutes and they would have sent a pickup truck to pick me up and the bike to carry me across, no charge, it was a service especially for cyclists.
He explained to me that riding on the small sidewalk was dangerous because the draft that the huge trucks were creating had nowhere to go and they would suck me under their tires, that's the reason they stopped the traffic. I was really please the way I was treated, even though I acted like a jerk, but they should have posted some sort of sign, I hope they do so in the future.
After Preveza I took the wrong road which made me cycle about 18kms more but no problem, I stopped for lunch at Vonitsa, then continued on to Paleros. From Paleros to Mitikas the road was really nice and scenic and had a few small to medium hills, good riding.
At Mitikas I stopped at this campsite that was very basic by any standards, but had a real good taverna. After washing up I went over for a couple of beers and a plate of spaghetti and I saw they had not 1 but 2 whole lambs on the spit, well the hell with spaghetti,
I ordered a plate of lamb, village salad, fries, several more beers and pigged out. LOL.
I learned from the locals that tomorrow was going to be a tough day with 2 huge climbs, so the extra nourishment was a good idea, I really liked the way things always turned out just right, I just went with the flow.
I slept good that night hehe.

        
Left to Right:
1- The very long climb after Parga. The fantastic views more than made up for the sweat getting up there.
2- The climbing continued as you can see. The mist covered village in the valley below is called Amoudia.
3- The descend into the valley was lined with flowering bushes. They had these bushes on about 40kms of road very nice riding.
4- On top of yet another hill looking down on a very beautiful coastline just after Loutsa.

     
5- A nice country road heading to Paleros. Nice riding with very little traffic.
6- The road after Paleros just kept on getting better and more scenic.
7- I found the secret as to why the Greek lambs tasted so good. LOL

July 3, Sunday.

Mitikas, Greece to Rio, Greece.
118 kms 7 hrs. 30 min. Av. 15.8 Total 2586 kms

Woke up at 04:00 to a howling wind, it was really blowing up a storm. I began to wonder if I have to stay at this camping for another night. I didn't care for that as the camping was bad. Everything, including the facilities were dirty, I just wanted to get out. I should have shopped around a bit for a better campground.
Anyway got out of bed at 05:15 and very slowly started to put my stuff together, in the meantime the wind started to die down a bit. I finally got on the way around 07:00.
The first climb came about 5kms from the town a nice medium climb, just the warm up.
About 15kms later I came to the second and really huge climb, about 4/5km long at around 10%, it was hard going, but I had the wind with me so it was OK.
The descend into Astakos was really beautiful, and the village itself was also nice. I stopped there for an omelet and fresh orange juice before continuing on to the third climb, also a very heavy climb, it was much warmer now and it made the going that much tougher.
After that I came into some very nice and flat farmland, I passed the villages of Lessini, Katohi, Neohori and Etoliko.
I had some strange looks from the older locals, I don't think they had seen many touring cyclists around these parts. The younger ones were really curious and wanted to know everything about my trip.
From Etoliko on my way to Messolongi there was this storm coming up behind me, and it looked nasty, I could hear thunder. I was hoping it would mis me, but after a short attempt to outrun the storm I got caught, with just a couple of kms from Messolongi. I was glad I didn't send my rain gear home after the Alps, because it came down hard for a bit and I got soaked, I dint expect any rain in Italy or Greece.
I stopped at a coffee shop for some hot brew, I didn't want to tackle the last climb in the rain.
The road was very busy with many trucks and the shoulder was a bit small. After the rain stopped the sun came out and I was dry in half an hour. The first climb after messolongi was not so bad, I thought the worst was over, when I turned this one hill and, surprise, I was greeted to +/-5km at no less than 8%, and as the humidity and temperature started to soar, the going got very hard.
After reaching the high point of the road it went around this cliff and that's when I caught sight of the brand new bridge they build between Rio and Andirio.
It is a very nice bridge and I took plenty of pictures of it. The original plan was to cross the bridge in the morning, but in the afternoon light it looked picture perfect so I crossed it and hoped I would find a good camping at Rio.
And how lucky I was, the camping at Rio was small, really nice and cheap, clean facilities and grass, wow first time I camped on grass since Andeer, Switzerland LOL.
If anyone is passing by Rio I would highly recommend this camping ground.

        
1- Halfway to the top of the second and very difficult climb after Mitikas, great views and fresh air.
2- On the way down of that big climb just before Astakos village, this is cycle touring at its best.
3- The village of Astakos, very nice and clean place, riding around these parts is a real joy.
4- Racing with the storm, I lost. It was fun though.

        
5- Messolongi is behind that really big rock. This last climb was really hard with the humidity from that storm.
6- The first time I saw that bridge from the top of that really difficult hill. This picture was taken using zoom.
7- The really nice campground at Rio. The bridge is right behind those trees, the light is wrong so its not visible in this picture.
8- The bridge lit up at night. They only turn the lights on in the weekends. This picture was taken from across the street in front of the camping.

July 4, Monday.

Rio, Greece to Korinthos, Greece. (via Patras)
144 kms. 8 hrs. 30 min. Av. 16.3 Total 2730 kms.

Woke up a bit late 07:30 and was on the road by 09:00. The plan for the day was to head towards Patras then double back and head east for about 60 to 70 kms and find a place to camp.
So I headed west to Patras which is where I was born, and go visit the grave of my Dad, and light a candle. I set there for a while I needed to get some things off my mind.
When I was done I started heading east towards Aigio along some beautiful landscapes, according to my map there was supposed to be a campsite there, but once there I dint like the town at all, it was big and seemed dirty, I dint even bother to check out the camp. So I headed for the next village with a camp, Krathio.
Well that was a real dump, I dint even bother to check it all out, so I continued on to Xilokatro, where I found out the camp was closed long ago. (but not according to the new #737 Michelin map of Greece)
Continued heading east to Kiato, again along very nice landscapes. Once there I found out  that this camp was closed for the season. No choice left I continued on to Korinthos.
I got there after dark, and for the first time on the tour I set up camp in the dark.
After I washed up and had something to eat I met these two Canadians having a beer, they too were touring with their bikes. So I got a few beers and set down with them for a chat.
They started from Vanice and headed to Athens they had gone the same route as me but with one exception they dint go through the Parco Nationale del Gargano.
Anyway they were hanging around this campsite for a few days, and I was going to stay one more than leave for Palea Epidavros. After the days unscheduled 144kms I was tired and in need of some R&R.

     
1- One of the many coastal villages along the old national road from Patras to Korinthos.
2- Another beautiful day cycling sunny skies little traffic, it was a real joy. Only real disappointment was about the camping's.
3- Having a beer with the two Canadians.

July 5, Tuesday.

In the morning I rode into Korinthos, it was hot, noisy, expensive, busy, and dirty so I left and went back to the camp to chill out, swim, take care of my bill, and in the evening drink more beer with the 2 Canadians. What a life hehe.
I should mention, as there are two camping sites, the one that I stayed at, and is the best of the two, was about 5 kms west of Korinthos.

July 6, Wednesday.

Korinthos, Greece to Poros, Greece.
103 kms. 7 hrs. 20 min. Av. 14 Total 2833 kms.

Woke up at 07:00 and on the road by 08:00, the road was already busy as there was a lot of industry before Korinthos.
When I finally reached the city, I stopped at this coffee shop for a couple of bread rolls and some coffee then continued towards the canal, very busy not very good at all.
After the turnoff heading towards Palea Epidavros the road got real good, less traffic and I could smell the fresh air, and for the rest of the 13 to the village of Almiri it was great ride.
Right after Almiri the first and really huge hill started, 17 kms at around 8%, long climbs with short and steep descends, great views but it was getting very hot now and the going harder.
Than this medium hill to the monistery M. Agnountos, and another medium hill right after.
Until now the plan was to stop for a day or two at Palea Epidavros, and again in Poros before getting on the ferry to Athens, but I changed my mind and decided to go on to Poros and chill out there for 4 days instead. I had heard that Poros is a party town and was curious.
On the top of that last hill I stopped at this gas station for more supplies and asked about this minor road that is in white on the map. And to my horror the gas station attendant said the road has been closed for a very long time and I had to climb this mountain and go to the village of Traxia then turn left and head for Poros.
They also said the grade was over 10% and about 7 kms long.
Man that was not what I needed to hear, he took me closer to the road to show me and he was right, that was one hell of a climb, and in the midday sun it would be torture.
The hell I said, I'll give it a go, and if it doesn't go, I'll return to Palea Epidavros and rest for a day, than tackle that hill early in the morning. It was the last hill of the tour.
I started the descend into Palea Epidavros and the town looked real nice from the top of the hill. As I continued going around the town hugging the surrounding hills I came across this very nice man selling oranges on the side of the road and I stopped to ask him if it was possible to go through that closed off road. He said that he had made it a few days ago in his car loaded with oranges but since yesterday they did not allow him anymore. But with the bike I could go with no problem. So after some long and careful thinking, (2 seconds)
I decided I would go for it. But he warned me that to get to the junction it would be a 2 km climb at 10% so I still had to do that first.
After what seemed as a very long time I reached the junction and turned past the closed road signs and then downhill for about 2 kms before it became really rough and I had to really slow down, the road was all tore up.
I passed the first road crew with no problem, when I got to the second road crew operating some heavy equipment one of the workers (loud mouth) started to yell at me to stop and go back, I just played dumb and continued when he did it again, so I motioned to him that I was not going to climb 2 kms through rough roads, then climb a further 5 kms to the top of this mountain and I continued.
About 30m further this younger guy came near me, looked like the boss and speaking English he said there is a great danger of rock falls further on. I explained to him that I would be very careful and keep an eye out for falling rocks, I didn't want to back track it was a long climb to the top. He looked closely to me and said just be careful and stay clear of the cliffs.
He was right after a couple hundred meters I saw the road almost covered with rocks and trees that had fallen from above now I began to get a bit nervous.
I weaved my way through and continued on to the other side where the road was again with nice and smooth, I was really glad when I got to the other side.
At the village of Kalloni I stopped for lunch as I was starving and very hot by now. I also called my wife and asked her to check on the internet if there was a camping at Galatas right across the bay from Poros, I did not trust this map anymore.
She replied that there is no camping there anymore, another disappointment. I thought there is no way in hell I'm going back so if there is no camping I'll check into a hotel for the 4 remaining days. That is 4 days to Sunday, I didn't want to cycle in Athens on any other day as the traffic is really bad in the capital.
I got to Galatas and found this campsite that was a real dump and I wasn't going to spend 4 days there. I got to the port of Galatas and caught the ferry across the bay to Poros for 1.50 euros.
Once there I asked this man at a kiosk if there were rooms to rent, he said more than enough, and I would be spoiled for choice.
So I went and found this nice and quiet room 100m from the sea, with kitchen, air conditioner, television, shower and proper toilet with a seat. LOL
At a reasonable 20 euro a night.
I wanted to camp all the way but the sun had gotten the best of me and the thought of having siestas with the air on was just too much.

           
1- Half way up the first climb after the village of Almiri. Great riding in these forested hills.
2- Poros is after the far hill on the right side of the picture. Very hard going here.
3- The hill in the middle of the picture has the nasty 7km 10% climb. You can just make out the road.
4- The hotel where I stayed in Poros was just over 1km from the port. Great place for some R&R
5- A well deserved beer after a very hot and difficult day. The first of many hehe

July 7, Thursday to July 10, Sunday.

Poros island.
I took it easy for these days, I rode around the island, swim, eat and drink.
The days went by quick, the air conditioner was real nice to have, especially around noon.
I didn't do much else, just R&R.
I had bought the ferry ticket on Saturday for Sunday at 07:00 and I set my alarm clock for the first time in a very long time. But I had forgotten to change the time back one hour and on Sunday morning, instead of being a half hour early for the boat I was a half hour late what a bummer.
I didn't want to get into Athens so late. It would be very hot cycling to my sisters place by the port of Pireous and then across the city to Ano Illioupoli to my moms place, where the official end to the tour would be. The next ferry was at 12:50 so I set by this coffee shop read my book and waited.

     
1- Sunday afternoon leaving Poros.
2- A very warm welcome from my sister Vicky, her husband Stavros and my nephew Nikos, in their new home.
3- The finish, standing in from of my mom's home in Ano Illioupoli and very happy to have finaly get here. I will be doing more tours in the future.

July 11, Monday to July 17, Sunday.

Just hung out in Athens and surrounding area visiting relatives, sharing some of my experiences and checking out mamas cooking.
During the week I had called the information desk for the train service going from Athens to the new airport, twice. And both times they said bicycles were no problem.
Sunday morning I rode to the ancient market place below the Acropolis and just as I was getting on the elevator this woman came up and told me that bikes where not allowed on the metro.
I told her that I had phoned twice and both time they said it was OK, they never mentioned anything about Metro, OSAP or OSE.
But she said she dint care, all she knew was that bikes where not allowed on the metro, and I would have to get on the OSAP line get off after several stops then catch the OSE train that went to the airport.
Unbelievable, I knew something like this would happen and I had left 3 hours earlier for the airport.
So after being told that, I went down one level to catch the OSAP line train, thats when 2 security man came up and told me that the bike was not allowed on that train and I would have to go down one level and catch the metro that went directly to the airport.
So I went back on the elevator and down to the last level to wait for the metro, that's when I was spotted on the camera by that woman. She came down all pissed of telling me what I was doing on that platform.
I told her what happened, and added that I didn't care if she called the cops I wasn't going to move from there. I told her that I wasn't going to miss my flight because they dint know what the hell they were doing. I did my job and asked twice, and it wasn't my fault. After calling her boss she came back and with a calmer voice said that we should go back up together and I was to show her who sent me down to the metro, and that I had enough time to catch my flight.
After she confronted the two security guards they called to their boss and I was finally allowed to get on the OSAP train. But only if I removed the front wheel of my bike, so it would not be complete. (according to their rules, the bike had to be packaged)
After the train left the station I put the wheel back on, some things never make any sense.
Athens still has a long way to go for the convenience of cyclists.
Anyway I made it to the plane on time, removed the paddles, turned the handle bars, and wrapped the bike with a few meters of that plastic with air bubbles in it, dont remember how they called it. The flight to Brussels was great, and the bike dint even get a scratch.
I highly recommend Virgin Express, very good and very cheap.
And from there I took the train's to Maastricht.
When I arrived home I got a real nice surprise from my wife and daughter.
They had set a real nice party for my homecoming, and my closest friends all there with food and drink.
As tired as I was it dint matter we stayed up until the early hours drinking and talking about my experiences.
One hell of a party, I really didn't expect that. I was a very happy man.

     
1- And the party started. The man to the left of that pole is my good friend Jo, who rode with me to the Belgian border on the first day, June 4.
2- From left to right. My sister in law Liselotte, my wife Monique, best friend Pierre, yours truly and Fabian, Jo's son.
3- And the party continued into the night. The rest of the photos are a blur hehe.