Week 4

Monday 21 May

Rest day
Stayed in Finikounda

Did nothing today stayed by the campsite, checked out the beach and the village. We needed to just rest, ever since Parga it has been tough on the mind and muscle.
Every time we see a beautiful sight we wish there is justice and the thief burns in hell.
We had somewhat expected Finikounda and the surrounding area to be more lush with vegetation but have found it quite wind swept. There are trees in sheltered areas but most of the hillsides are especially between Finikounda and Methoni, are quite bare. Also Finikounda is a very nice little village but quite small, but a very beautiful place to visit.
Today I had to arrange with the camp owner for a ride to Methoni because there isn't an ATM machine in Finikounda.
The owner was heading that way also to pick up her kids so it worked out great.
Again we highly recommend this campsite if you're every in the neighborhood.

Tuesday 22 May

Finikounda to Koroni to Finikounda
4 hours 11.3 Av. 44 kms Total 1177 kms

We decided to stay in Finikounda one more day as it would be very difficult to try and make it to Methena as planed, so we ended up changing our plans once more. It is a vacation after all and not a distance setting record attempt.
After a nice a restful night we decided to take a day ride to Koroni (for lunch) and back again. This is also to check out the hills we have to climb the next day.
The climbing started a few kms out of the village, the road was new but the hill very long and steep in parts. The road just kept going up and up with many false summits, but the vistas were really beautiful.
At the junction for Akritohori we continued straight in the direction of Basilitsi and the road just kept on going up and up reaching 10% at times. Right after the summit there was another fork in the road but we continued on to Basilitsi, and the following downhill was nothing short of fantastic. We rode downhill along this mountain side while looking at the other forested mountain side across this wide ravine, it was very beautiful.
Koroni is a small village perched on the side of a large rock with all the houses stacked one on top of the other. It has a nice castle and a beautiful church but the streets were very small and difficult to navigate, and the few tourists that were around seemed too many, we couldn't imagine what it would be like in high season.
After a nice lunch of kalamari and village salad on the port, we got some supplies and started back.
It was midday now and quite hot.
At Harokopio we got on the old road heading to Finikounda. We had bought some Red Bulls which really helped getting us over the short but steep hairpins we came too. It was tough going all the way to the top to the village of Yiamia.
We decided to take this road going the other way tomorrow morning, as it's a much shorter climb.
Needless to say that the beer tasted real good that afternoon.
We met this Slovak officer taking a vacation in Finikounda with his girlfriend on his new BMW motorcycle.
Nice couple but they where screwing like rabbits, all the time even on the beach, and at midday LOL When I went for a dip I walked passed them when they were busy, they didn't see me at first only when I screamed from the very cold sea, but when I looked up they had stopped, the guy was smiling but his girlfriend was very embarrassed LOL

 
1-Looking south from Koroni, Finikounda is on the other side of the far hill, top center of the picture.
2- The small harbor of Koroni where we had lunch, very beautiful but it probably would be busy here in high season.

Wednesday 23 May

Finikounda to Stoupa
8 hours 30 min. 12.5 Av. 107 kms Total 1284 kms

Got up early this morning as we knew what kind of hill awaited us, but in the cool of the morning we breezed over the hills quite easily.
From Harokopio we turned left and followed the main road heading for Kalamata. The road was OK, pretty flat, and no shoulder, there was a bit of traffic but we kept on the right with no problem all the drivers were courteous.
We continued past Loga than on to Petalidi were we stopped for coffee and met Bill, an English cyclist touring Peloponisos, we had a nice chat and after the coffee we went our own ways.
Soon after leaving Petalidi it started to drizzle and after looking up we saw some real huge clouds moving in, we were hoping it would miss us and it did for a while.
Now between Messini and Kalamata we came on the worst road of the whole tour, very busy, bad road, garbage all over the place, many gypsy camps, it was just a nightmare to cycle through.
We found our way through busy and dusty Kalamata, made our way to the coast and tried to find a camping.
Now according to our map of Peloponisos there are supposed to be four here but we only saw two and they did not look that good besides the first impression of Kalamata was such that we really didn't care to stay here.
Right after Kalamata we stoped at a gas station to ask for camping information and were told it was another 30 kms to the next one, called Delfinia, so on we went.
It wasn't 15 min. later that the climbing and the rain began. It came down hard so we shelter in this garage next to a house but soon realized that it will not stop so we took out our rain gear and got back on the road.
The climb to the top at Stavropigi just after Kambos was tough, very long, steep with many hairpins and the rain did not help, we were getting all these strange looks from the motorists. The vistas though did not disappoint as they were not short of spectacular.
The Taigetos mountains are rugged and steep, even in the rain, we were treated to some really breathtaking views.
When we neared Kambos the rain stopped for a while but when we started our down hill after Stavropigi it came again and with a vengeance, there was no shelter around on top of this mountain so we just had to ride.
It became a bit hair raising because above 20kph I didn't have any breaks so I really had to slow down to 15kph for the rest of the downhill, (I made a mental note to replace them). On a downhill with no guard rails is not the best time to find out the breaks need replacing.
A few kms down we saw on of the most beautiful sights of the whole tour, a complete rainbow over a deep gorge with rugged mountain peaks just inside the rainbow. Again we wished the thief of our camera would burn in hell.
We went through the village of Kardamili and followed the coastal road to the camping at Delfinia and what a shit hole that was, there was no way we would stay there not after a day like this, so we continued on to Stoupa.
Naturally the camping at Stoupa was closed but by now we were very tired and there wasn't any other camping around so we looked for and found a room at this very nice and brand new hotel in Stoupa.
Later on we went down by the sea for a kebabs and beer.
www.taletosmaisonettes.com
www.bikely.com/maps/bike-path/kalamata-to-Stoupa

   
1- This picture shows the village of Petalidi were we stopped for coffee and supplies. We rode from right to left. The Taigetos mountains can be seen across the Messiniakos Golf.
2- This picture shows the shore line with the Taigetos mountains on the left. It was taken from Kalamata.
3- This picture was take from a view point on top of the climb just after Stavropigi. It shows the coast line south with Kardamili in front and Stoupa in the distance.

Thursday 24 May

Stoupa

The room was so comfortable with TV, air-condition and all the extras (including kitchen) we decided to stay another night and really recuperate from the difficult and wet day we had. Besides it has been a long while since we slept in a real bed.
The day was cloudy so we only got out of our room to do some shopping.
We made some spaghetti for dinner and just chilled. Later on that evening we took a walk for some ice-cream but soon after it started to rain again so we dashed back into our room.
We worried that it would rain the whole night and into the morning.

1- Stoupa sea front looking north. A very nice little town, again very touristy mainly English.

Friday 25 May

Stupa to Githio
6 hours 12.3 Av. 72 kms Total 1356

The day started out gray but as soon as the sun rose a bit it cleared up. After talking to the hotel owner and his son we knew there would be two tough climbs to get to Areopoli than a nice and long downhill to Githio.
The first and the longest climb was very difficult with a couple of hairpins towards the end at over 10%. Again the views were fantastic it's a real pleasure to ride around here, with the only downside so far being Kalamata.
Right after the village of Otilo we came to this small bay (far below) and we could see the second climb of the day just on the other side and it looked steep. We were glad it had stayed dry so far.
After the second climb we came to Areopoli, we were told its a beautiful town but it really looked like a modern and oversized gypsy camp, if I'm being harsh, well, that's the way we saw it, maybe we were there at the wrong time or something. Anyway as soon as we left it started to rain, we were glad it didn't last long.
The downhill was very nice, but many hills were burned around here, it seems they had a very large fire here a couple of years ago, as some vegetation seemed to be making a comeback.
Just before Githio there were signs of camping's at Vathi but we thought they were too far from town so we continued on.
At Githio we checked out 3 camping's and settled for the third, (called Meltemi), being the best of the three and the closest to the city. After setting up camp we rode into town for dinner and checked out the boat schedule for Piereous. We found out that they have one, once a week leaving on Monday evening at 17:30 sails to the island of Kithira, has a layover of three hours, than sails at 23:00 and arrives in Piereous at 05:30.
A bloody 12 hour boat ride, but priced at 23 euro pp bikes free its not so bad.
www.bikely.com/maps/bike-path/Stoupa-to-Githio

   
1- This is the best picture I could find showing the hill we had to climb after leaving Stoupa.
We rode over the hill that's just above the church in the center of the picture.
2- This picture is take from the top of the hill right after Otilo, looking south across the small bay at the nest hill we had to climb to reach Areopoli.
3- Looking back from where we came, Otilo could just be seen middle right of picture.

Saturday 26 May

Githio to Kotronas to Githio
5 hours 20 min. 12.4 Av. 67 kms Total 1423 kms

It was a sunny morning so we decided to take a day ride to Kotronas for lunch. We took the main road back the way we came yesterday and turned off towards Vathi to where the other camping's were, and were glad to see that we had made the right choice of continuing to the other camping's yesterday. They didn't look that bad it's just they are really far from town. They would be great if one had a car or motorcycle though as the beach here is much better looking and a lot cleaner.
After we cycled through the first bay of Vathi we came to another bay of Kamares even more remote, very nice cycling so far. After leaving this bay we had this very steep climb over 12% and slowly made our way to another backwater village of Skoutari before we had this over 16% climb to the main road, this last climb we had to walk no way to cycle this.
The main road was new with hardly any traffic and really scenic. Up and up it went along this mountain side and the views just kept getting better. There was also a lot of thyme and oregano growing in the area and this smell combined with the sea breeze was just heavenly. When we reached the top we saw this small heard of free roaming cows along the road which was really nice to see.
When we got to Kotranas we found that the name on the map was bigger than the village, that combined with the attitude of the locals made the place look bad. It was really a shame as it looked like a nice little village from above.
Anyway with no place to eat lunch we decided to cycle back to Githio for something to eat.
The ride back was also very nice and we followed the main road back.
Altogether it was a nice ride and we really enjoyed it, next time we come to Peloponisos we would like to tour the whole of the Mani peninsula.

 
1- This picture was taken from the beach in Skoutari and shows the beautiful coastal road we took to Kotronas.
2- This picture of the free roaming cows was taken just before Kotronas. If you follow the road in the picture above its just around the corner of that far mountain to the left.

Sunday 27 May

Githio

We didn't do anything today as our tour is sadly coming to an end. It's an overcast day and our moods are the same.
We met this nice Dutch couple, Rob and Truus. They were our neighbors in camping Meltemi, with a small trailer and were nice enough to send us some pictures that they had taken. Unfortunately they did not send one of the two of them together.
If you guys ever come near Maastricht the beers are on us ;-) (oops sorry Rob, its anders voor jou) I haven't forgot ;-)
We are thinking of the coming days and the hassle of getting across Athens on our bikes to Moms house and the hassle of the Athens airport, it is going to be rough.
We also met these two very nice guys, a German and an Austrian, that were also touring, but on motorcycles. We had a nice chat over a few beers that evening.
We also met this other German man that was hiking all over Peloponisos on his own also a very nice chap that we shared some experiences with if you read this mate all the best for you and your wife.
At night the mood was not so good as we knew after tomorrow it will be big city, noise and all that, it's always sad when a tour nears its end.

     
1- Camping Meltemi almost finished packing and saying goodbye to Rob. Unfortunately Truus took all the pictures so we don't have one of her :-(
2- Waiting at the port cafe for our ride to come.
3- The road to Githio with our ride in the center of the picture.
4- This picture was borrowed from Flickr.com, it was such an overcast day any pictures taken could not do Githio any justice, I needed one taken on a crystal clear day.

Monday 28 May

Githio to Athens

We got up late as we had nothing much to do today but pack our stuff and head for the port, but we woke up to rain and a lot of it. We were wondering if we had to pack wet to get out of here. After about an hour or so it slowed a bit so we got out washed and started to put our things together.
Luckily after some time the rain stopped altogether and we put our tent together and packed everything quickly just incase it started up again.
We waited a long time at the port coffee for the boat to arrive and when it finally did we boarded to find it was a real bucket.
It was really filthy with nowhere to sit on deck and we were lucky to find a clean place to put our stuff. At first the toilets where clean but once the Greeks boarded they pissed all over the place we could not sit on the toilets. We were afraid to touch anything there and wondered if they acted like this at home. These people should be ashamed of themselves. We really felt like we were in a third world country. If I'm being harsh well they deserve it, there is no reason for them to act like animals. By comparison the Superfast ferries from Italy to Greece were 100 times cleaner.
It was a very long ride to the Athens.

Tuesday 29 May to June 1

Athens

There were no less than 6 ferries docking and a few leaving the port this morning, it just so happened to be the end of a long holiday weekend for many and the port was very busy. Getting out of Piereous was hectic to say the least.
We had not slept well and even though I know the area a bit, getting into this traffic and finding our way towards Athens half asleep was tough.
The trick here is to not show them your scared otherwise you wont get anywhere you must cut them off and quickly. If you even think of giving in they will cut you off.
They are all in a hurry but know all too well that if they touch you they will be there for hours with the police so they will give way eventually.
Anyway it all went well (mostly) as cycling along the small side street that goes along Syngrou Ave. a couple of kids did try to be cute with their car by cutting us off and than when they tried to get away they got stuck in heavy traffic 20 meters further. I could see the driver was looking in the rear view to see if I was coming after him. I just wasn't in the mood to cycle over there and drag them out of the car by their ears in the middle of the street, sometimes its just better to let it go.
After that, we climbed the last bid to my moms house, and while greeting her we were very surprised to see our daughter, she had bought a ticket to Athens without us knowing, just to be there at the end of our tour.
Needless to say we had a great time together and later on in the evening the rest of the family showed up for a great welcoming get-together.
We spent the next couple of days there and finally the three of us flew back home to Maastricht.

   
1- The end of our tour in front of moms house in Athens.
2- Getting ready to leave for the airport. My sister and brother-in-law brought our daughter and most of our stuff later.
3- We knew there would be a longish ride to the airport with heavy traffic, so we only brought along some important items.

To get to the airport by bike from Athens is possible only from the coastal approach. Part of it is a dual carriageway but its allowed to cycle on it. You can verify this by calling airport information.
It is recommended to cycle this on a weekend or holiday, no on weekday as us, it was very busy with many trucks.
The inland road is a toll road with many tunnels and it is strictly forbidden.